Boa constrictor - Boa Constrictor Constrictor

About

The common boa constrictor can be quite a stunner to look at. They grow to be 6-8ft as females and 5-8 ft as males making them a large snake species. Their build is more square and thin than other snakes (like pythons), but they still reach a whopping 20-30 lbs on average. Boa Constrictor Constrictors (BCC’s like Red-Tailed Boas) tend to grow a little larger than Boa Constrictor Imperators (BCI’s/Common Boa’s). Both boa types are quite the long-term commitment since their standard lifespan is up to 30 years with reports of some boas living past 40. Make sure you have the space and the years to take care of one of these giants before adopting.

Enclosure

Hatchlings and juveniles can start in 20 gallon enclosures, but will soon need an upgrade to a 4’x2’x2’ enclosure minimum. 6’x3’x3’ is a much more suited enclosure though. This species is semi-arboreal so the extra foot in head space is extremely helpful to create more climbing spaces for enrichment. Branches and sturdy tubes make great climbing materials for your boa. If you’re going the rack route, breeders often use tubs 4’x30” for adults. Hatchlings can be started out much smaller then gradually moved up. The enclosure has to be large enough to include two hides (one on the cool side and one on the warm side) and a large water bowl at minimum. Boa constrictors need 60-70% humidity which is best maintained by a good humidity-controlling substrate. Watching the humidity in your home can give you a better idea of what type of substrate the enclosure will need. Good options include cypress mulch, orchid bark, or aspen shavings. Aspen is good for overly humid households, while cypress mulch and orchid bark help to increase humidity. Paper towels and newspaper also make a great disposable easy-to-clean alternative as well.

Environment

Boa constrictors are found in tropical environments with high-moderate temperatures and humidity. The warm side of the enclosure should be set around 85-88 degrees with an under the tank heater (UTH) or a ceramic heat emitter connected to a thermostat controller. The basking spot temperature (if you choose to have a basking spot) can go up to 90 degrees. The cool side needs to maintain around 75-80 to allow the snake to thermoregulate. If they get too hot, this allows them to move to the other side of their enclosure to cool down and vice versa. Humidity is easiest to maintain with a substrate that compliments the environment of your home. You can see more about this in the enclosure section. Maintain a humidity of 60-70% with a boost up to 75-85% during sheds. A great way to boost the humidity (and necessary regardless) is a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in. A large mass of water will naturally boost the humidity while giving the snake a great place to relax when going into shed or getting thirsty.

Diet

Hatchling and juvenile boa constrictors will start out eating every 7 days but slow down their eating to every 2-3 weeks as adults. Boa constrictors can eat sizes ranging from fuzzy mice to XXXL rats. The best way to pick rodent size is to ensure the rodent has a similar girth to your snake. There should not be a large visible lump after the snake has eaten. Boas often won’t eat while in shed but it doesn’t hurt to try if they’re due to eat. If they don’t take, just wait until after they shed their skin to try again.

Common Health Problems

Boa constrictors can often have bad sheds if their humidity isn’t properly maintained. This can lead to retained eye caps and even blindness if not helped. They’re also prone to regurgitating and IBD (Inclusion Body Disease). IBD is characterized by central nervous system symptoms such as head shaking, pupils of uneven size, muscle spasms that cause the head to arch backwards (stargazing), and regurgitation on and off. This disease is ultimately fatal.

Common Boa Constrictor (BCI) Care Tips