Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius)

Introduction

Leopard geckos are a popular beginner reptile due to their adorable appearance and abundant availability. As hatchlings they’re only 3-4” in length, but can grow up to a whopping 10” as adults. Super Giant leopard geckos are a larger morph of gecko and can reach up to a foot in length! They’re mostly active at sunset and sunrise when they come out of their hides to hunt their prey. This is the best time to feed and handle them as they’re already awake and won't be grumpy that you woke them up. Regardless of the time of day, leopard geckos are awesome reptiles that offer a huge variety of morphs (colorations).  

Enclosure 

Young geckos can start out in a 10 gallon enclosure then be moved to a 20 or 40 gallon enclosure as adults. Male leopard geckos cannot cohabitate and while many cohabitate females successfully, it is not recommended. This can cause one to bully the other or eat their food, causing one of them to starve. It’s best to keep one leopard gecko per enclosure.

Disposable substrates like paper towels or newspapers are great for cleanliness and convenience but non-stick shelf liner and tile can be much more aesthetically pleasing. Loose substrates like sand are not recommended since young geckos could accidentally eat the substrate when hunting which causes impaction (they can’t poop!). Bioactive set ups can be tricky since this species enjoys a slightly drier environment than what bioactive enclosures tend to require, but it can be done with enough attention and care.

Be sure to include a hide on both the warm side and cold side with a humid hide somewhere in the middle. Humid hides can be made out of cups or Tupperware containers with moss or other humidity controlling substrates (like coco coir or eco earth) inside. Mist the area lightly to dampen the substrate, but not so much that it becomes sopping wet. Without this humid area to retreat to, leopard geckos can have bad sheds resulting in stuck toe shed or face shed. Both of these areas are hard to assist in removal and require a lot of diligent care. Not removing the stuck shed can also cause more problems such as the loss of toes. 

Hides aren’t the only decoration they’ll need as leopard geckos enjoy clutter. The more decorations you can supply them- the more enrichment they have in their day to day life. This doesn’t mean that you should fill the terrarium to the brim with leaves, just give enough to interact with to stay happy. It is up to you as the keeper to decide if you want to provide supplemental lighting, but is not necessary. Leopard geckos do not need UVB to survive but it has been thought to be beneficial by some keepers. If you do opt to use supplemental UVB, look for 5.0% UVB or the Shade Dweller light from Arcadia. These are less harsh UVB options and are better suited for these geckos. Albino eyes are extra sensitive to UVB, however, so extra caution must be taken if using lights for albino geckos (though not recommended). 

Parameters

Keep their ambient temperatures at 85-90 on the warm side and 78-80 on the cool side. The nighttime temperatures can drop down to around 73. This temperature gradient is necessary for the geckos thermoregulation (regulation of body temperature) and is best achieved with an UTH (Under the tank heater) or Ceramic Heat Emitter. Both devices should be connected to a thermostat controller to monitor the temperature of the device and prevent burns or fires. 

Humidity should stay pretty close to what it probably is in your home naturally (30-50%), but it should be monitored along with temperatures. A spray bottle can be helpful to raise humidity by misting in the humid hide while fans can help lower humidity by circulating the air. Make sure that the humid hide in the center of the enclosure stays slightly damp, allowing it to dry between misting. 

Diet

Leopard geckos eat a large variety of insects. Crickets are a fundamental feeder that many leopard geckos start on, but can be challenging as they can’t be left alone in the enclosure together. Crickets are often too hungry for these soft-scaled herps and can end up making a small snack out of the leopard geckos skin. For this reason and a few others, mealworms and Dubia roaches are often preferred by keepers. Other insects like hornworms and silkworms can be fed as well, but should be used as a treat rather than a staple diet. Mealworms are much easier to deal with and don’t smell the way crickets do. The only downside is that mealworms have slightly less nutrient density than crickets. That’s where Dubia roaches come in. Dubia’s don’t smell and won’t bite up your herp! They also have more nutrients than the other two options and are a great source of calcium.

Speaking of calcium, leopard geckos need supplemental calcium (without vitamin D) and multivitamins to stay healthy and strong. There are a couple different way to supply these. Most commonly, insects are dusted in the powder by placing them in a baggie or container with a small amount of powder and shaking the container lightly. This lightly coats the insect with the calcium and it is ready for your herp. Another option is to keep a small dish of calcium without vitamin D in the enclosure at all times for your gecko to eat as they please. Leopard geckos are very smart and will eat the amount they need as they need it. 

Ensure your gecko has access to fresh de-chlorinated water on a daily basis. Pick a water dish that is large enough for them to soak in but not large enough to be fully submerged. It’s not likely that you’ll spot them soaking, but it can help them with shedding the skin on their toes (which is a common problem area) as they’ll walk through their water from time to time. 

Temperament

Taming is quite simple for these beginner reptiles. The goal is to get your gecko to have as many positive interactions, and as little bad interactions, with you as possible. Tong feeding them teaches your herp that you are where the goodies come from. Positive interactions are important to teach you herp that you aren’t a threat. This means ensuring at the end of your time with them, your animal didn’t run away from you to hide. This can be a sign of a stressful interaction they feel they need to run to get away from. Avoid loud noises, dropping them, squeezing them, and etc. Leopard geckos can and will drop their tails if they feel that they’re in danger. They do have the ability to regenerate them (I know, MAGIC!), but it will take time and the tail will not grow back the same. 

Some keepers have said it helps to have a “sound” for your gecko to recognize you by. Do this by clicking your tongue or making some other sound every time you go to interact with your gecko. Over time your gecko will start to associate that sound with you and, if done well, may even come to you when they hear it. This takes a lot of time and patience (and treats!)

Common Health Problems

Leopard geckos are prone to having subpar sheds without proper humidity. If the stuck shed stays on between sheds, the gecko will grow too large under the previous shed and it will cut off their circulation. This is how leopard geckos often lose their toes. There are many tutorials on how to help stuck toe shed on YouTube, but you may need to consult a vet if you don’t have reptile shed assisting experience. There’s no shame in being showed how to do something by a professional before attempting it yourself.

Beyond that, they are also prone to egg binding, metabolic bone disease, and parasites. If you notice a change in your geckos eating or pooping patterns, bone/body shape, or energy levels- consult a vet as soon as possible.