Western Hognose Care tips

Western Hognose - heterodon nasicus

INTRODUCTION

Western Hognoses are native to America and are known for their cute “hog-nose” appearance. They tend to weigh just under 800g as adults maxing out at a whopping 3’. Most Hognose snakes stay between 12-24” though. Hognoses have a very mild venom that only majorly affects those whom are allergic to the venom (or small prey). When they’re stressed they’ll put on a display like a rattle snake- shaking their tail with no rattle sound. Their unique hiss almost gives off a rattle effect to make up for it. They’ll flatten their neck and body out to appear as large as they can. Then, if they’re really bothered- they’ll die (or at least pretend to). These snakes are known for their ability to play dead when stressed out. They flip onto their back and writher around with their mouth open as if they’re dying oh-so-tragically. Once they see you’re still there, they’ll eventually realize playing dead won’t get them anywhere and they’ll go back to normal. If you’re looking for a minorly venomous drama queen-this is the snake for you. 

Enclosure 

Hognose snakes can start out in a small 5-10 gallon enclosure. As the snake grows, move it to a 20 gallon terrarium or a 3’x2’x2’ enclosure for large females. If you’re keeping them in a rack- 5 liter tubs for hatchlings, 30 qt tubs for adult males, and 40 qt tubs for adult females. Paper towels and newspaper make an easy, sanitary substrate for these snakes. Some hognoses enjoy burrowing, though, so you may want to shred the paper to make a fluffier substrate base. Hatchlings should always be started out on paper towels to keep them from accidentally ingesting lose substrate. Adults can be kept on aspen (we like lizard litter/chopped aspen!), soil mixes (organic potting soil or coco coir, clay, and sand) or recycled newspaper product. Consider feeding the snake in a different container if you chose a lose substrate. This greatly lessens the risk of substrate sticking to the feeder and getting eaten by accident. Impaction is very serious and can be deadly. Spot clean the enclosure as necessary and replace substrate every 2-3 months. 

PARAMETERS 

Western Hognoses enjoy warm temperatures up to 90 on the warm side and 70 on the cool side. This can be accomplished with a heat mat/tape, basking bulb, or both. Be sure to connect whichever devices you use to a thermostat controller. The heat mat or bulb should be positioned to directly heat the warm side of the enclosure with plenty of room for the snake to get away and cool down if needed. Night time temperatures can drop to upper 60’s-low 70’s without need for a night time heat emitter. Keeping the UTH on is often sufficient enough for night heat. This species doesn’t need UVB to stay healthy but it can be beneficial. If you chose to add UVB- aim for a 2-5% T5 tube or a 5% T8 tube. These provide minimal UVB so your snake wont get burnt but can reap some of the benefits of UVB. Keep these on for 14-16 hours per day during the summer and 8-10 hours per day during the winder. 

DIET

Start off feeding baby hognoses pinky mice on a weekly basis then gradually increase the feeder size as the snake grows. A good way to estimate is by ensuring the feeder is roughly the same girth as the snake. There shouldn’t be an excessive bulge after a feeding, and if you feed an item too small your snake may still be hungry afterwards. Once Hognose snakes reach adulthood, they only need to be fed bi-weekly. Keep a water dish large enough for occasional soaking but not deep enough that the snake can fully submerge. Scrub out the water dish weekly.

TEMPERAMENT

As you read in the intro- Hognoses are drama queens. Right out of the egg they’re often sassy and vocal. Their hisses have a unique rattle to them- probably to make up for the lack of sound their tail makes when rattled. Hognoses will flip onto their back and writhe around as if dying tragically if overly stressed. We do not recommend trying to get your snake to display this as that does mean you’re creating bad (stressful) memories of yourself in the snakes eyes. However, if it happens- it happens. There are some extremely dramatic hognoses. Some will “die” just by being offered food. You never know what you’re going to get. Their temperament tends to tame down with age, though. Even though they put on a threatening display they rarely are able to land their bites when they strike. These snakes are known for falling short and it may take a couple tries before they even find their food correctly. Truly goofy noodles who tame down easily. Hold your hognose for 10-15 minutes every 1-2 days and adjust timing from there. The calmer your snake reacts, the more you can handle it. If your snake is overly stressed it may be better to take it little by little. 

COMMON HEALTH PROBLEMS

Hognose snakes are most prone to respiratory infections, mouth rot, and fungal infections. If you have any concerns talk with your vet.